Port City:
Frederiksted, St. Croix
Climate:
Subtropical, with average temperatures year-round in the 80s
Language:
English
Currency:
US Dollar
Area Code:
340
Country Code:
001
The largest of the three
principal islands comprising the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. Croix's
diversity is partly due to its size - 28 miles long and 7 miles wide.
This tropical island is three times the size of nearby St. Thomas, and
its terrain is uniquely diverse. A lush rain forest in the western
mountains and undulating hills in the interior are a marked contrast to
the spiny desert vegetation and dry, rocky red cliffs found on the
eastern end. Year-round temperatures average 82 degrees during the day
and 72 degrees at night; constant trade winds keep the island cool and
pleasant.
There is an excellent published
guide for this island called "St. Croix This Week". The name is a little
misleading as it is a monthly publication. It is very well done (printed in
Miami) and is about 45 pages in length. The guide gives the schedule for the
entire months activities including cruise ship arrivals.
The guide is full of useful
information including maps of the island and the two major cities. It also
includes information on all the attractions of the island, history, local
advertisements and reviews on many restaurants. If you send $3.00 to St Croix
This Week, P.O. Box 22447, Christiansted St Croix, US Virgin Islands 00822-4477
they will send you a current copy.
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St. Croix's major points of
interest are quite spread out, yet getting around the island along the major
roads is no problem at all. However, if you're adventuresome and want to follow
the scenic and less-well-maintained gravel roads, you should consider renting a
four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Airlines
Several major carriers serve the
St. Croix airport, some flying direct from the mainland. In fact, many flights
that depart from St. Thomas bound for the United States stop at St. Croix before
flying on to the mainland. You can also find many major carriers that fly to San
Juan, Pueto Rico and then get an American Eagle or Cape Air flight to St. Croix
for about $160 U.S. round-trip. If you're interested in island hopping, a number
of carriers offer daily commuter-type service to St. Thomas, Tortola, Virgin
Gorda, Puerto Rico and St. Maarten.
Nine daily flights by
seaplane between St. Thomas and St. Croix are now offered by
Seaborne Airlines for approximately $130 U.S.
Traveling in the Virgin Islands or Puerto Rico?
Want to fly without all the BIG airport hassles? Then come fly with us!
Our 18 passenger air-conditioned seaplanes fly under the same strict
rules as major US carriers and we
fly up to 60 flights per day from downtown to downtown
- skipping all the stressful nonsense in between. Fly Seaborne and
you’ll get where you’re going sooner, stay longer, and get home before
anyone else!
Not only is
this a quick and convenient way to travel between the islands, it is
also a great way to see the islands from the air, and a lot of fun! You
can also take the seaplane from San Juan, Puerto Rico. Call Seaborne
Airlines for a flight schedule or reservations at 1-340-773-6442
or Outside U.S.V.I. 1-888-FLY-TOUR, Reservations hours are from
6:00am to 7:30pm AST Monday through Saturday and from 6:00am to 7:00pm
AST on Sunday.
Fly up to 20 daily
round trips between St. Croix and St. Thomas Fares range from $80 to
$150 round trip You can also book online by visiting our website at
www.seaborneairlines.com
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Car Rentals
If you want to see the island at
the slow, leisurely pace at which it is best enjoyed, it pays to rent a car or a
four-wheel-drive vehicle for at least part of your stay. Your driver's license
is valid here for 90 days.
(Click here for St. Croix car
Rentals.)
The biggest difficulty for
American drivers in the Virgin Islands is getting used to driving on the
"wrong," or left, side of the road in an American- or Japanese-made car, which
has the steering wheel on the left side. With this arrangement, it's more
difficult to gauge your vehicle's distance from the lane to your right; by
paying careful attention, however, you'll quickly pick up the ability to do just
that.
Most rental agents will remind
you to pass with care. In the States, it's easy to nudge your car out of its
lane and look around the car in front of you. But driving an American- or
Japanese-made car in the left lane, you can't do that without getting into the
oncoming lane. There is no trick to solving this problem, so be very cautious.
The safest rule don't be in a hurry.
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Ferry Service
SeaTrans will
depart the St. Thomas waterfront at 9:30 a.m. and 6 p.m. Friday through Monday.
The ferry will leave Gallows Bay, St. Croix, at 7:30 a.m. and 3:45 p.m. Friday
through Monday. The trip takes about an hour and a half.
Round-trip tickets
run $90 for adults and $80 for children. One-way tickets are $51 for adults and
$45 for children. For more information, call 340-776-5494.
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Sightseeing Tours
Since you're on vacation, you
might like to see the sights with the ease and convenience afforded by a tour or
your cruise ship's shore excursion desk. Several operators feature an open-air
safari bus; a knowledgeable guide will fill you in on the island's history and
take you along the most scenic routes. Most of these independent operators are
located in Christiansted near the waterfront. Both half- and full-day trips are
available at a reasonable cost.
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Taxis
Never in short supply, taxis are
un-metered and rates must be posted in all vehicles. It's best to agree on a
fare before leaving. The posted per-person rates reflect the fare for more than
one passenger traveling to one destination; a solitary passenger has to pay
double that rate.
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Christopher Columbus came upon
St. Croix on November 14, 1493, during his second voyage to the Americas. He
sent a crew ashore at St. Croix's Salt River inlet in search of potable water;
there followed a brief confrontation with some of the island's Taino
inhabitants, resulting in deaths on both sides. The Great Admiral promptly moved
on to chart the numerous islands to the north, naming the entire group including
St. Croix the Virgin Islands, in honor of the legendary virginal devotees of St.
Ursula. He later christened the island Santa Cruz, or "Holy Cross."
As the Spaniards concentrated
their early efforts in the Caribbean on the Greater Antilles, St. Croix's native
inhabitants may have escaped the initial impact of the conquest. But in the
early 1500s, when the Spanish began to raid the island for slaves to work their
gold mines in more lucrative colonies, a renewed native resistance served as the
justification for the extermination of the Caribbean's indigenous peoples. By
the early 1600s, when the island was permanently settled, the Tainos Columbus
encountered on St. Croix had utterly disappeared.
The Dutch and English were among
the first to establish themselves on St. Croix; both powers had a presence on
the island by 1625. The Dutch shared their settlement with a handful of French
Huguenots from nearby St. Kitts. The two colonies coexisted without major
incident until 1645, when the island's Dutch governor killed his English
counterpart. A skirmish ensued between the two colonies during which the Dutch
governor was mortally wounded. The English colonists extended a conciliatory
invitation to his successor; however, upon his arrival at the colony, the Dutch
official was arrested and publicly executed. The Dutch were forced to abandon
their colony and retire to St. Eustatius and St. Maarten, while their French
neighbors relocated to Guadeloupe. The English solidified their claim on St.
Croix and remained unchallenged for the next four years.
In 1650, the English settlement
was overrun by 1,200 Spanish colonists from Puerto Rico. Dutch forces from St.
Eustatius tried unsuccessfully to recapture St. Croix. Later that year, Philippe
de Lonvilliers Poincy, Governor of the French West Indies, claimed possession of
St. Croix in the name of the French Crown. DePoincy, the leader of the Knights
of Malta, then purchased the island from the French king in 1651 and directed a
group of his fellow knights to colonize St. Croix. In 1653, he bestowed his
private holdings in the West Indies to the order and sent one Chevalier de la
Mothe to St. Croix with supplies. The unfortunate emissary met with a rather
ignoble fate as he was apprehended and shackled by some 200 rebellious French
colonists, who made off with his ship.
Two years later, a new governor
was sent to restore order to the colony. The knights, however, unaccustomed to
the rigors of managing plantations, failed to establish a viable economy on St.
Croix. In 1665, the French West India Company bought all the islands owned by
the Knights of Malta, and in 1674, the French king paid the company's debts,
assuming ownership of all its holdings. Unable to turn the colony around, the
king ordered its residents to relocate to Santo Domingo. Although still a French
possession, St. Croix was abandoned save for a few squatters until well into the
next century.
The Danish West India and Guinea
Company bought the island from the French in 1733. Attracted by cheap land,
planters, mostly English, flocked to St. Croix from neighboring islands. But the
company's impending bankruptcy prompted the settlers to petition the Danish king
for aid, and the island was made a Crown Colony in 1755. The Danish influence,
more lasting than that of any other European power, is particularly evident
today in the gingerbread architecture of Christiansted and Frederiksted.
During the second half of the
18th century, the island enjoyed a period of enormous economic prosperity based
on the cultivation of sugar, the production of rum, and the slave trade. The
Danish West Indies served as a central slave marketplace in the region, and
despite the protestations of the Danish Crown, St. Croix's planters relied
heavily on slave labor. The Danish government declared slavery illegal in 1792
but assisted planters in acquiring slaves during a "transition" period; the
slave trade was abolished in 1803. However, St. Croix's slaves would not achieve
independence until July 3, 1848, when Governor-General Peter von Scholten roused
from his bed in the wee hours of the morning by the news of a slave insurrection
ordered their immediate emancipation.
The British recaptured St. Croix
in 1807 and held the island during the Napoleonic Wars much to the relief of St.
Croix's English planters, who had been chafing under trade restrictions imposed
by the Danish Crown. But the island reverted to Denmark in 1815, and the next 30
years brought drought and widespread economic depression.
During the second half of the 19th century, St. Croix suffered a series of
natural disasters including a fire in Christiansted, an earthquake and tidal
wave and two hurricanes that exacerbated the colony's woes. The economy did not
fully recover until the middle of this century.
In 1917, the United States
purchased St. Croix, St. John and St. Thomas from the Danish government to
prevent their becoming a German submarine base during World War I. St. Croix
first fell under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Navy and was later granted
Territorial status. A period of uneven economic recovery continued until the
1950s, when tourists began to discover the island. Since then, the industry and
the island has seen steady growth.
Today, the U.S. Virgin Islands is
an unincorporated Territory with a non-voting delegate to the U.S. House of
Representatives. Although all persons born here are U.S. citizens and taxpayers,
they have no vote in national elections. Islanders were granted the vote in
local elections in 1936 and chose their first governor in 1970.
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Sightseeing
St. Croix is large and its sights
are rather spread out, so if you are not taking an organized tour or shore
excursion, it pays to rent a car or taxi for at least part of your stay.
Bicycles are not a great idea, because the island is hilly and the roads have no
shoulders. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are better for visiting the out-of-the-way
scenic regions, since many are reached only by dirt roads. A word of caution:
not all roads are clearly marked, particularly at the intersections. Though the
American system of numbered route signs is used, the signs appear with less
frequency than drivers are used to in the U.S. And there are fewer signs showing
the names of the places you've either reached or are heading toward than you
would expect.
The island's most prominent
landmarks are the sugar-mill ruins, reminding visitors of the time when sugar
cane was "king" and the island was divided into hundreds of plantations. Homes,
resort swimming pools and hotels have been built around many of these ruins,
which are valued symbols of St. Croix's rich history. Other reminders of the
island's past are the fanciful names used to identify St. Croix locations.
Jealousy, Wheel of Fortune and Lower Love are all plantation names dating from
the 1760s, when land was divided into low-priced 150-acre tracts used by the
Danes to attract settlers.
St. Croix has been ruled by seven
nations, all of which left their marks on the island. Though it is currently an
American territory seemingly reminiscent of the United States with its shopping
centers and fast-food restaurants, St. Croix has preserved its West Indian
cultural heritage, attitudes and identity. Families who have resided here for 10
generations are still influential, their roots stretching back to the colonial
era. It is worth your while to make an effort to meet some Crucians because
their stories and family histories will immeasurably enrich your stay on the
island.
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Christiansted
The picturesque harbor town of
Christiansted attained its present state by the late 1700s, when St. Croix was a
crown colony of Denmark and the city was one of the Caribbean's major ports. The
U.S. National Park Service maintains the neoclassical-style buildings as they
appeared in the 1830s through the 1850s, the period following the peak of
prosperity for the island's sugar, cotton, rum and slave trades. Many street
signs are still in Danish.
Christiansted was one of the
first Caribbean towns to adopt a building code. The 1747 measure regulated
street width and block size, created zoned areas and, perhaps most important,
provided that buildings must be fashioned of fire-resistant materials.
Christiansted, therefore, never suffered a devastating conflagration, as did
Frederiksted, and its architecture accurately portrays what this island port was
once like.
The buildings generally fall into
one of four categories. Most prominent are the public buildings, such as
churches and government offices. Two- and three-story masonry townhouses were
constructed for planters, who needed a presence in the island's center of power.
Merchants lived in structures with ground floors of limestone brick, where they
tended shop, topped by wooden shacks, where they lived. The workers lived in
one-story wooden shacks on the outskirts of town.
The imposing mustard-yellow
Fort Christiansvaern, finished in 1749, is a good example of 17th- and 18th-century
Danish military architecture. As you walk out of the fort, you'll pass the
graceful two-story Old Danish Customs House, which is the headquarters for the
National Park Service. Across King Street, you'll find the Old Scale House,
adjacent to the wharf. Built in 1855-56, the Scale House was formerly used to
weigh and inspect imports and exports for tax purposes. Now it is the city's
post office, but the old scales still stand.
Across the parking lot from the
Scale House is the rambling Old Danish West India and Guinea Company Warehouse,
currently the location of a bank and several shops and restaurants. It was once
the central offices of the Danish trading company that both owned St. Croix and
monopolized its trade even though the island's British planters outnumbered the
Danes five to one.
The nearby Steeple Building was
St. Croix's first church, erected in 1750-53; the steeple was added in the
1790s. It still has the original marble floors, and contains a small museum with
an exhibit detailing the island's history.
Traveling up King Street, you'll
approach the stately Government House, with its long outside staircase and
spacious ballroom. The Danish government is helping to restore the structure to
its original elegance. Don't miss the shaded courtyard: its giant shade trees
and flowing fountain provide a respite from sightseeing or shopping.
The facades only hint at the many
splendid courtyards and arcades found throughout town, many of which house shops
and restaurants. Don't resist the temptation to explore inside.
A boardwalk follows the
harbor's edge which has many great places to eat and drink as well as
several small hotels. A great place to watch the seaplane takeoff and
land on it's way to and from St. Thomas.
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The East End
St. Croix's eastern end has some
of the island's prettiest vistas, a perfect place for a leisurely drive. You'll
encounter a landscape dotted with cacti similar to the American Southwest, an
interesting contrast to the island's lush western regions.
If you want to see East End's
many features rugged cliffs, ocean vistas and interior farmland begin your
driving tour by taking Route 82 (East End Road) out of Christiansted and circle
back along Route 60 (South Shore Road).
As you depart Christiansted from
Hospital Street, which turns into Route 82, you'll soon pass The Buccaneer. Its
resort facilities are not open to the public, but a cocktail at sunset at the
Terrace Bar in the main building is one of St. Croix's unforgettable
experiences.
Shortly, you'll see the signs for
Green Cay Marina, home to an assemblage of luxurious sailing yachts and a good
place to arrange charter, diving and snorkeling excursions. The marina is named
after the small island just offshore, a refuge for the endangered St. Croix
ground lizard. Just past the marina entrance, there is a turnoff to one of the
island's finest resorts, the Chenay Bay Beach Resort.
Another few miles ahead, a small
bay opens up before you, where you'll find the St. Croix Yacht Club, a popular
mooring for sailboats. Across from the club, perched atop the cliffs, is an
immense mansion the locals refer to as The Castle. Built by a flamboyant
jet-setter known as the Contessa, the building is a melange of architectural
flourishes reminiscent of the Taj Mahal.
Farther on is an intersection
where Route 82 continues straight and Route 60 veers off to the right. If you go
straight for about two miles, you'll come to Point Udall, the easternmost point
in U.S. territory and the most secluded spot on the island. Before the paved
road ends, there's a beach and a tidal pool area perfect for exploring (see the
"Ecotourism on St. Croix" section for a self- guided tour). Once you arrive at
the end of the road, you'll be treated to a spectacular view of the rocky coast
and Buck Island off in the distance.
Back at the intersection, after
you get on Route 60, you'll pass some of the island's most picturesque views,
including one of Grapetree Bay. The US Virgin Islands only casino, Divi Carina
Bay Resort & Casino, is just past Grapetree Bay. Continuing on, you'll see the
Great Salt Pond, a mecca for birds and bird watchers. On a typical walk, you
probably will spot brown pelicans, herons, great egrets, black-necked stilts and
many other species.
As you turn onto Route 624 and
then Route 62 to head back to Christiansted, you'll be traveling through some of
the richest farmland in the Caribbean. And don't be shocked to see red-hued
cows; they are a special breed that is found only on St. Croix.
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The North Shore
In contrast to the expanse of the
long east end, the North Shore is much more compact. As you traverse the roads
that hug tawny cliffs overlooking the glistening Caribbean and hear the wind
underneath canopies of shade trees, the North Shore seems the most peaceful
section of the island.
Follow Route 75 north out of
Christiansted to the hotels and beach clubs of Little Princesse, capped by St.
Croix by the Sea, another of the island's fine resorts. A right turn, following
Route 75 to its end, will take you to Judith's Fancy, where you'll find the
ruins of a sugar mill.
As you descend Morningstar Hill,
take the first right, onto Route 80. Look for the sign "Tradewinds at
Morningstar," which marks the intersection. As you follow the signs for Salt
River Marina and continue past it about a mile, you'll see a marker on the left
denoting the spot where Christopher Columbus purportedly landed in 1493.
Although Columbus himself did not
actually disembark while anchored in the Salt River Bay, he did send a boat
ashore in search of fresh water. Salt River is one of only two sites in what is
now U.S. territory associated with Columbus and the only one confirmed by
documented evidence. Moreover, it was the site of the first fatal confrontation
between the European invaders and the natives of the New World. Numerous Taino
artifacts have been excavated from the site. Already a National Historic
Landmark and a National Natural Landmark, the Salt River area was designated a
National Park in 1992. (See the "Ecotourism" section below.)
When you get back on Route 80,
continue north. The road climbs along stunningly beautiful cliffs; on a very
clear day, you can see St. Thomas and St. John on the northern horizon. North
Shore Drive passes by Rust-Op-Twist, the ruins of a sugar plantation. The name
is Danish for "Rest-After-Work."
Several miles ahead, you'll pass
through part of St. Croix's unusual rain forest, which has the densest tropical
vegetation on the island. Two miles ahead is the renowned Carambola Beach Resort
& Golf Club.
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The West End and Frederiksted
Westenders often greet visitors
from other parts of St. Croix by asking, "What brings you to the nice side of
the island?" While not exactly fair to the rest of St. Croix, the greeting
nevertheless has more than a germ of truth to it. This least-developed part of
St. Croix enjoys a more casual lifestyle, although there is no less to see than
in the east.
Frederiksted is the logical
starting point for a west-end tour. Stop off at the Visitors Center at the Pier
to get started and continue out on the Pier for a good panoramic view of the
town's old historic district and Strand Gade, or Strand Street. This waterfront
shopping area is noted for its arcaded buildings and interesting historical
structures. The town, in the midst of restoration under a government "Main
Street" program, is constantly evolving and improving.
The St. Croix Aquarium, located
just across the street from the Frederiksted Pier, houses hundreds of creatures
from local waters. This marine education center provides an excellent
opportunity to learn about marine biology, reef conservation and island culture.
Frederiksted's architecture is
different from Christiansted's because the town was partially burned during an
uprising called Fireburn in 1878. When it was rebuilt, many structures had the
gingerbread trim characteristic of late Victorian architecture, including the
Victoria House, at the corner of Strand and Market streets, which may still be
closed for renovation to be turned into a museum.
Fort Frederik, constructed
between 1752 and 1760 and located at the north end of town, is a grand example
of Danish military architecture. Two notable events occurred there: in 1776, it
was the first foreign fort to salute the United States flag; and in July 1848,
Governor General Peter von Scholten signed the proclamation that emancipated the
slaves in the Danish West Indies.
Continue down Strand Street along
the waterfront for two blocks and you'll come to the Old Frederiksted Public
Library, also called the bellhouse after a previous owner named G.A. Bell, who
decorated the stairs with bells. The building is now an arts and crafts center.
Nearby is the 18th-century Market
Place, an open-air bazaar existing from the time Frederiksted was founded, where
you can purchase tropical fruits. While here, don't miss the striking sunset
views from one of the town's waterfront cafes.
Two miles east of town on St.
Croix's oldest thoroughfare, Queen Mary Highway, also known as Centerline Road,
stands the Estate Whim Plantation Museum. Guided tours of this National Historic
Site explain the workings of an 18th-century sugar cane plantation and provide
an interesting introduction to the island's history and landscape. Amid shady
thibet, mahogany and 150-year-old tamarind trees stand a windmill, a chimney and
a sugar factory. Surrounded by a three-foot moat of stone and coral, the stately
French-influenced great house has been fully restored by the Landmark Society
and has imported and Crucian antiques on display.
Just up the road is the St.
George Village Botanical Garden, a lush, peaceful oasis with more than 300
species of tropical flora. Built amid sugar-mill ruins, the garden is among St.
Croix's most photogenic sights. Check local papers to find out about the special
events, such as jazz concerts, that are frequently held there.
Backtrack down Queen Mary Highway
to Route 64 and the Cruzan Rum Distillery, the manufacturer of one the finest
rums in the world. Rum has long been a major export, and the island's economy
suffered greatly during Prohibition.
North of Frederiksted, the
dramatic coastline along Route 63 provides many turn-offs to shady beaches ideal
for a quiet picnic along the sea. If you're in the mood for a livelier time,
stop at any of the beach shacks lining the road where food and drinks are doled
out in generous portions. These beaches offer the best swimming on the west
side, particularly the one opposite Sprat Hall Plantation, a charming great
house that is now an elegant inn and restaurant serving dinner.
Creque (pronounced "creaky") Dam
Road (Route 58), by Sprat Hall Plantation, will take you into the heart of St.
Croix's rain forest. Creque Dam itself is a 45-foot-high structure ringed by
towering kapok and sandbox trees covered with Spanish moss. Creque Dam Road then
connects with Scenic Road (Route 78), which is just that.
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Sports
St. Croix is endowed with natural
features that make it a water-sports enthusiast's paradise. Spectacular scenery
enhances the enjoyment of land sports such as golf and tennis. And mild tropical
temperatures make it possible to participate in sports year-round.
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Water Sports
Deep-Sea Fishing
Charter boats leave from the
wharf in Christiansted, Green Cay Marina in Christiansted and St. Croix Marina
in Gallows Bay on half-day, short-day (approximately six hours) and full-day
excursions to the prime fishing ground of Lang Bank. What makes this a great
place to fish other than the abundance of blue marlin and other game fish is the
fact that boats don't have to spend much time running, as the drop-off of Lang
Bank is only a short distance offshore. This means more time to fish.
Billfish are plentiful in summer,
while winter brings wahoo and dolphin to local waters. Tuna run in the spring.
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Diving & Snorkeling
As is the case with many of St.
Croix's other attributes, people are only slowly discovering the fantastic range
of diving opportunities here. The reefs surrounding the island offer both easy
beginners' dives and enough challenges to hold the interest of the most seasoned
divers for weeks. In a Top 100 poll taken in Rodale's Scuba Diving Magazine
readers rated St. Croix
#4 overall for
"Best overall destination, best visibility and value in the Caribbean, and the
world's most popular destination"
and # 2 for
" best shore diving"! US
Virgin Islands placed #2 for "best
snorkeling"!
For the novice, one of the best
introductory dives anywhere is the Frederiksted Pier. Skillful divers find it
entertaining too, particularly for its night diving. The pier's substantial
pilings are covered with brilliant red and yellow sponges, and sea horses,
octopus, batfish, Atlantic oval squid, puffer fish and lizard fish are in
abundance.
Just north of Frederiksted is one
of the most impressive wreck dives in St. Croix. The Rosamaria is one of three
wrecked ships that form an artificial reef off Butler Bay. This 177-foot
steel-hulled freighter is en-crusted with pink and red sponges that have
attracted a good number of fish, including yellowtail and horse-eyed jacks.
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Cane Bay, on northern St. Croix, attracts divers and snorkelers alike.
The site offers outstanding wall
dives beginning in only 35 to 40 feet of water. Antler, purple tube and orange
elephant ear sponges are common; boulder corals dominate the spurs and grooves
of the shallows, giving way to vertical drops where schools of spade fish and
eagle rays thrive. Northstar Wall has an immense Danish anchor embedded in the
coral at a depth of 60 feet. Dolphins and turtles occasionally make an
appearance in the area. Nearby Davis Bay also offers great snorkeling from the
beach.
The Salt River region has what
many consider to be the island's finest diving. Its east wall features a sharp
100-foot drop marked by canyons and caves cut into the wall's face, and large
schools of fish are a frequent sight.
Snorkelers can explore the coral
gardens around Green Cay, a tiny offshore island just east of Christiansted.
Although it is accessible only by boat, the cay is close enough to reach in a
small craft like a kayak or even a sailboard.
Hotel on the Cay, a private
island located just a short ferry ride from downtown Christiansted, has a large
designated snorkeling area just off its sandy beach. Its focal point is a mini
marine habitat in less than three feet of water, perfect for beginners,
non-swimmers and kids. Schools of tropical fish gather around an old engine
block and peek out from "recycled" conch shells, and small eels, shrimp and a
variety of other creatures abound. Nearby is a 15-foot drop off, where the
bottom is peppered with coral formations; schools of jacks, needlefish, tangs
and many other species can be seen, and eagle rays, squid, octopus and other
exotic creatures have been known to make an appearance from time to time. You
can rent snorkel gear from the St. Croix Water Sports Center. You can also
borrow a "glass-bottom bucket" to enjoy the view.
Just off the northeastern coast,
Buck Island's underwater trail, which is restricted to snorkelers, is St.
Croix's most popular tourist destination. And getting there is half the fun the
vessels leaving from Christiansted and the north shore include motorized boats
(some glass-bottom), graceful sloops and speedy trimarans. Excursions are either
for half or full days; full-day trips include a beach party on shore as well as
snorkeling. (See the "Ecotourism" section below.)
Visitors who are not certified to
dive, or those who wish to upgrade their certificates, will find a variety of
sanctioned courses available throughout St. Croix at competitive prices. If you
have never dived before, you can enroll in an inexpensive resort course that
allows you to make shallow reef dives after just a few hours of training. In
addition, divers can rent or purchase virtually any piece of dive equipment they
desire: numerous dive shops carry a wide selection of brand-name goods. Fully
qualified personnel are also available to attend to equipment repairs.
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Parasailing & Windsurfing
At first glance, parasailing
seems to be exclusively the province of daredevils. Not so - parasailing is safe
even though you are hundreds of feet in the air. Don't miss the opportunity to
see the island from this unique perspective!
St. Croix is regarded by
experienced windsurfers as one of the top locations in the world to practice the
sport. The same features that attract the experts - the steady 10-to-20-knot
winds out of the east, beautiful scenery and the combination of glassy-smooth,
sheltered water and churning waves - make St. Croix an ideal place to learn and
develop windsurfing skills.
Experts should try windsurfing at
Salt River, where the winds are the strongest on the island and the surf is at
its highest. At Duggan's Reef, at the island's east end, conditions are also
suitable for windsurfing. And the calm waters off Hotel on the Cay, sheltered by
Long Reef, are perfect for novices and experts alike. Lessons and equipment
rentals are available.
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Sailing & Chartering
The U.S. and British Virgin
Islands are a "cruising crossroads." The trade winds are continual, the seas are
generally calm, and the mountainous terrain provides for excellent line-of-sight
navigation which explains why the Virgin Islands are often cited as having the
world's best sailing.
You can arrange excursions at the
wharf in Christiansted, at Green Cay Marina and at St. Croix Marina. Smaller
boats such as Sunfish and Hobie Cats can be rented on the beach at the major
resorts. The St. Croix Water Sports Center rents kayaks, Sea Doos and Wave
Runners.
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Land Sports
Golf
For those who prefer to stay on
land, try a round of golf at the Carambola Golf Club (809-778-5638). Here you'll
find one of the best golf courses on St. Croix and perhaps in the entire
Caribbean. Nestled in the lush interior hills of northern St. Croix, the course
is set amid palms, bougainvillea and hibiscus. As designed by the famed
architect Robert Trent Jones, the 6,856-yard, par 72 course features many
challenging uphill and over-water shots, particularly on the tricky par 3 holes.
Tee times are generally easy to get, but you must make reservations one day in
advance. Lessons, equipment rentals, practice facilities and a pro shop are all
available on the premises.
The Buccaneer Golf Course
(809-773-2100) is another first-rate course, as well as being a good test of
your shot-making skill. It is a hilly 6,268-yard, par 71 course dramatically
situated by the ocean. The course, pro-shop and practice facilities are open to
the public by reservation.
The Reef Golf Course
(809-773-8844) is a fun 9-hole course that also offers panoramic ocean vistas of
Buck Island. It's located on the east end of the island by Duggan's Reef.
Click
here for
more Golf information.
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Tennis
The best courts on St. Croix are
at private clubs, which require reservations and a modest fee. The Buccaneer has
eight championship Laykold courts open to the public, along with a well-equipped
pro shop and an experienced pro who gives lessons. Two courts are lighted for
night play.
Private courts are also available
at Chenay Bay, Colony Cove, Mill Harbour, Sugar Beach, Hotel on the Cay, Club
St. Croix and The Reef.
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Side Trips
St. Croix is attracting people
who come primarily to appreciate the natural splendor of the island. This
section focuses on a few of the island's natural wonders: Buck Island, Butler
Bay, The St. Croix Aquarium and Marine Education Center, and the St. George
Village Botanical Garden.
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Buck Island
Reef National Monument
President John F. Kennedy,
apparently moved by the beauty of Buck Island's reefs during a 1963 visit, had
the island and its surrounding waters declared a National Monument. Numerous
tour operators around the island offer trips of varying length to the 800-acre
nature preserve, located one mile off St. Croix's northeastern shore.
Buck Island's primary draw is
spectacular snorkeling in clear, shallow waters. At a depth of only 15 feet, you
can observe massive elkhorn corals, brain corals and other marine life that
flourish along the park's well-marked underwater trail. And more experienced
snorkelers will enjoy exploring the deeper outer reef.
After a visit to the
extraordinary underwater trail, most tour operators usually anchor at the
island's white-sand beach, a worthwhile attraction in itself. There's also a
45-minute hiking trail that leads into the interior of the island, which is
carpeted with tropical vegetation. The observation tower at the end of the trail
provides a fabulous view of St. Croix and the reefs around Buck Island.
The island's facilities include
picnic tables, grills, a pavilion, a changing house and rest rooms. Most tour
operators provide snorkeling equipment.
Butler Bay Nature Preserve
The Butler Bay Nature Preserve
comprises 225 protected acres replete with indigenous plant and animal life. A
bridge made with hand-cut Danish stone over 150 years old still stands on the
property, and hand-dug wells have been discovered here. A 60-foot waterfall
cascades in the middle of this rain forest. The preserve has horseback riding
trails, and there are plans to develop new trails for both riding and hiking
within the refuge.
The St. Croix Aquarium and Marine
Education Center Opened in 1990, The St. Croix Aquarium and Marine Education
Center practices and teaches eco-sensitive measures. Every day, marine biologist
and owner Lonnie Kaczmarksy dives to catch fresh food for the marine creatures
at the St. Croix Aquarium. Kaczmarksy also believes in "recycling" the
aquarium's sea life; once an exhibit has "performed," its often-times
hand-collected creatures are returned to the sea and are replaced with a new
exhibit. With this constant rotation, hundreds of species pass through the
aquarium's tanks each year. In addition to several viewing tanks, there's also a
touch pond with starfish, sea cucumbers, pencil urchins, several varieties of
fish, colorful coral and much more. Kaczmarsky's intention is to familiarize
beginner snorkelers and divers with the underwater world and to educate them on
the effects of damaging or threatening the ecosystem in any way.
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St. George Village Botanical Garden
This beautiful 16-acre expanse
showcases over 800 various species of exotic plants, all varying in shape, size,
color and texture. The walking tour an experience you won't want to miss takes
you through a Crucian rainforest, the ruins of a sugar mill and rum factory, and
a cactus and succulent garden.
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Self-Guided Hikes
If you wish to explore St. Croix
on your own, the following hikes are recommended for their solitude and beauty.
Note that these trails are not manicured or marked, so you'll feel as close to
nature as the island's original inhabitants. However, because the areas are
isolated, it's wise to take along a companion.
Isaac's Bay is a two-mile hike.
To reach this spot, follow East End Road (Route 82) past Cramer's Park; the road
turns into a gravel path, which you follow until you reach a dead-end on the
hilltop overlooking Point Udall. You can park here be sure to leave no valuables
in your vehicle.
If you look over the railing, you
will notice a faint track that leads down the barren volcanic hillside to the
water. At the bottom, you can sit and watch waves roll in, crashing against the
rocks. Follow the shoreline heading west until you come to an open field filled
with cactus. Wind through this arid field and you will end up at East End Bay,
where you can explore the beach and search for shells. You can follow the beach,
heading up and over a small mound, back down to Isaac's Bay. This is where you
might want to spread a blanket and have a bite to eat. If you're a snorkeler,
bring your gear along; these shallow, protected waters have lots of colorful
fish and coral.
A slightly shorter but just as
exciting hike is at Annaly Bay; this is a 11 2-mile trek. Take Scenic Road
(Route 78) west, approximately five miles past Carambola. Take the turn-off
heading up and to the right. Immediately thereafter, you'll see another dirt
road heading back down the hill; turn right. You will be fairly close to the
water. Park at the top of the hill and hike down the incline to Annaly Bay. Once
there, you can enjoy the warm wading pools and explore the deserted beach. At
the northwest end of the beach are some cliffs that are virtually perpendicular
with the ocean. This area is called Marron Hole, named after a community of
exiled slaves who lived there in the mid-1770s.
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Beaches
The lure of St. Croix's
sun-drenched beaches is virtually impossible to resist; they have been ranked
among the most beautiful in the world. Picture crescent moons of sugar-white
sand rimming secluded coves, lush tropical scenery and the sun reflecting
diamond sparks on crystal-clear aquamarine waters that about sums up what you'll
find on this island paradise.
Click here for more information on St.
Croix's beautiful beaches.
In & Around Christiansted
A short ferry ride from downtown
Christiansted will bring you to the Hotel on the Cay, which offers a lovely
beach with an adjoining restaurant and bar; a complete water-sports center; and
a wonderful view of the harborside wharfs. To the west of the city, there's a
great 1,000-foot stretch of beach, as well as facilities for a number of water
sports, at Estate Golden Rock, where Club St. Croix is located. The Buccaneer, a
five-minute ride to the east of Christiansted on Route 82, features luxurious
beach facilities, tropical drinks, food and shade. Non-guests are charged
admission; rafts and beach chairs can be rented.
Nearby Shoy Beach has palm trees
along the shore and waves that are perfect for body surfing if the wind is
right. To find it, go through the Buccaneer Hotel entrance, turn right along the
golf course and travel the dirt road at the fork until you see the sign for
Buccaneer Estates. Park there and follow the overgrown path to the beach.
Teague Bay and the Reef Beach
entrance opposite the Reef Condominiums. Everything you'd want from a beach is
here no wonder it's favored by both residents and visitors. Swim or sun at the
long stretch of beach, or sip a cool drink on the restaurant deck while you
watch the windsurfers.
A turn onto Route 60 will take
you to Grapetree Beach. It boasts shade, a splendid stretch of sand, and calm,
protected waters. Should you tire of just plain swimming, snorkel gear and
sailboard rentals are available at this hotel beach, and you'll also find a bar,
a restaurant and rest rooms.
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West of Christiansted
Heading west and then north of
Christiansted on Route 75 will bring you to the Little Princesse region. Here
you'll see a long stretch of white-sand beaches dotted by beach resorts, the
largest of which is St. Croix by the Sea.
Traveling farther west on Route
75 and turning north on Route 80, you'll arrive at Salt River Bay, where
Columbus anchored in 1493 and which has recently been designated a National Park
(see the "Ecotourism" section below). There is a nice sequestered beach without
facilities, and a nearby marker commemorating Columbus' visit. Frequently,
you'll see windsurfers negotiating the challenging wind and waves.
Farther down the North Shore Road
(Route 80), you'll come to the locally popular Cane Bay Beach. Here you can
watch the waves roll in over the spectacular reef or spy a sea turtle.
Neighboring Davis Bay Beach meets most people's preconception of what a
Caribbean beach should look like, so much so that the final scene of the movie
Trading Places was filmed here. The dense rain forest forms a backdrop for the
winding shoreline, making this one of St. Croix's most picturesque spots. These
two strands are particularly special because some of the island's best
snorkeling is just 100 feet offshore. Davis Bay Beach is part of the Carambola
resort complex but is accessible to the public.
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In & Around Frederiksted
You can also find several fine
beaches on the west shore north of Frederiksted. If you drive along Route 63,
you'll arrive at several beach shacks and grills. You'll enjoy the calm waters
and sugar-white sand at Rainbow Beach. It's been touted as one of the island's
best snorkeling spots. The nearby beach bar provides a cool haven for sipping a
refreshing drink. The stretch in front of La Grange Beach and Tennis Club and
Sprat Hall Beach, across from the Sprat Hall Plantation, are similar to Rainbow
Beach: both have gorgeous sandy shores with full facilities, bars that pour
inexpensive, oversized drinks and grills that serve tasty burgers and
sandwiches.
Another spot for those who like
privacy is Sandy Point, a pristine area with tranquil waters and miles of white
sand. Located at the southwestern tip of the island, it is a nesting ground for
the endangered leatherback and green sea turtles. If you are lucky, you may get
to see them. The beach is protected by local environmentalists during the early
April to early June nesting season to guard the eggs. To get there, take Melvin
Evans Highway to its western end and follow the dirt road; there are several
places to turn off.
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Art
An artist is born every minute in
the Caribbean; since pre-colonial times, these islands have produced many
dreamers. St. Croix has consistently worked its magic in this respect by
producing some remarkable "born-here" artists and, over the years, by becoming
home to an astounding number of artists from all over the world. That strong
artistic presence is what gives St. Croix its particular character as the
"art-full" Virgin Island, boasting an average 40 local artists whose works can
be viewed throughout the year. The diverse and often transient nature of St.
Croix's artistic community keeps originality of style as much a certainty as the
tropical charm that continually attracts new dreamers to these shores.
Major artistic events are usually
scheduled throughout the winter season. However, the vibrant artistic life on
St. Croix makes art shows an all-year enjoyment. Art exhibitions on the island
can be seen at places as varied as the grounds of a historic great house, an
artist's studio, fund-raising events, public fairs, street festivals, the
Botanical Garden or inside a 15th-century fort and, more predictably, at a few
commercial galleries in Christiansted and Frederiksted. You'll be treated to
exciting creations by newcomer artists as well as long time-residents and native
Crucians. There are also offerings from artists who have gone but still keep in
touch through their colorful imagery.
The majority of these artistic
activities takes place in the town of Frederiksted and its surroundings.
Frederiksted is known for having preserved its attributes as an artist's colony.
The only traditional gallery, in both size and artistic representation, is
located in one of Frederiksted's oldest houses, dating back to the early 1880s.
The Frederiksted Gallery features fine arts selections from St. Croix's noted
artists, as well as cultural activities, such as court-yard poetry readings.
Fort Frederik, located in the
Frederiksted harbor, houses an art gallery and many display rooms offering a
variety of presentations all year long.
The crafts are heavily
represented in late November at Starving Artist Day held yearly at the Whim
Plantation, where many artisans can be seen at work. In addition, currently on
display at the plantation is a new line of furniture called The West Indies
Collection, inspired by 18th- and early 19th-century colonial pieces found at
this restored plantation house.
Art In The Garden in March
showcases the work of art students from painting sessions that were held at the
Botanical Garden. In the town of Christiansted, the Gilliam-King Gallery, owned
by a painter and a sculptor, features their respective works. And La Petite
Galerie, also in Christiansted, specializes in Caribbean-inspired glass and
metal sculpture.
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Ecotourism
Within recent years, St. Croix
has become more environmentally conscious and sensitive, joining the rest of the
world in an effort to protect and preserve the earth as well as encouraging a
back-to-nature approach to tourism.
There is a growing desire here to
protect the coral reefs and marine life that border the island's shores, the
soil that covers the land, and the air that's breathed by all. Many projects now
exist for environmental causes, and several associations have formed, including
the St. Croix Environmental Association (S.E.A.).
The S.E.A. is a non-profit
organization that was established in 1986. The primary purpose of the
organization was originally to protect certain land sites from development. The
campaign to save the Salt River site, an ecological and historic jewel, has been
one of the S.E.A.'s greatest successes to date. Since then, the mission of the
S.E.A. has been to educate and create an overall environmental awareness on the
island.
The Salt River area now the Salt
River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve contains the single
largest mangrove estuarine system left in the Virgin Islands. The mangroves and
the bay's seagrass beds provide a very important wildlife habitat, hosting 27
endangered or threatened species and providing a breeding and feeding ground for
fish and invertebrate populations. The submarine canyon at the mouth of the bay
one of just a handful in the world is home to deep-water corals and rare
geological features including caverns, grottoes and ledges. This unique
submarine environment has made Salt River a scuba diver's paradise.
In addition to its ecological
importance, the Salt River basin is also one of the most significant
archaeological sites in the Virgin Islands. Archaeologists unearthed the only
Taino ceremonial ball court in the Lesser Antilles here; along with many
associated artifacts, the ball court indicates that the area was an important
Taino cultural center. A ceremonial burial ground dating back to A.D. 350 was
also discovered. And Salt River Bay provided Columbus' first anchorage in what
is now U.S. territory. Hence, the site has been the focus of every
archaeological investigation held on St. Croix since 1880.
In addition to Salt River, the
S.E.A. has continuously worked to protect other fragile lands by advocating
thoughtful and environmentally sound development. And the association's programs
have had a far-reaching effect on the island.
The S.E.A.'s VI ReLeaf
reforestation program, started in 1989 after Hurricane Hugo, is dedicated to
planting new trees and teaching their ecological importance. Trees are given to
schools, churches and communities as gifts, and children are taught to plant and
care for them. The S.E.A.'s Environmental Quality Action Team (EQAT) monitors
the waters around the island, keeping them clean and safe for humans and
wildlife alike. EQAT ensures that St. Croix is in compliance with local and
federal environmental laws governing quality standards. The program was
recognized by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency in 1994 with an award.
The S.E.A. was the first
organization to teach Crucians about the need to recycle; while this effort is
now overseen by the Antilitter and Beautification Commission, the S.E.A
continues its educational efforts, and still coordinates island clean-ups from
time to time. While everyone enjoys the benefits of the S.E.A.'s many programs,
its guided eco-walks and hikes are especially appealing to visitors and
appropriate for all age groups. Each tour is of varying difficulty. The walk
through Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve is the
least strenuous. There's also an excursion to Point Udall, the easternmost point
in U.S. territory; this trip is moderately difficult. A rain-forest expedition
into the Caledonia Valley, home to 200-foot kapok trees, is the most
challenging.
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© 1998 Jerry
Reynolds &
Jackson Publishing
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